Front End
Description and Installation
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| Feature vehicle: 88-98 Chevy Tilt w / molded in Indy Cowl scoop. | |
Front End Descriptions We offer the largest selections of front ends - Any where! One piece front end offer many
advantages. Most importantly, Easy Engine Access! They are perfect for header and
spark plug access - engine swaps...etc.... Think about this the next time you are
working on your vehicle - how great it would be if you didn't have to climb over
those fenders to get to your motor. Less weight is an other important factor that
most individuals don't think about. Lightening up your vehicle means better economy
and performance - if you think we are kidding try bolting a spare set of cylinders heads
to your front bumper and you'll see just what front end weight will do to your handling.
With a glass front end you can save anywhere from 50 to 150 pounds. Remember, less
front end weight means better weight transfer, better economy, better gas mileage &
heck that's better for the environment. NEWS FLASH.....beep...beep...beep....Fiberglass does NOT rust! PLEASE BE AWARE THAT: Tilt Front Ends: come complete with a hinge kit and instructions.
They require some body work experience as well as light welding, drilling and
cutting to insure proper installation. Pro Front Ends: generally bolt directly to your existing firewall and radiator support. Heavy Duty models will accept a hinge type hood, light weight models require the use of a lift off hood. Remember: Light weight front ends are much lighter and are reinforced for racing purposes. Heavy Duty front ends weight between 55 & 85 pounds depending on the size and model of the unit. Be sure to write down the proper part number when ordering. |
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Tilt Front End Instructions The following is simply one suggested way of installing your new fiberglass front end. These instructions and ideas may or may not work for you & a secure - safe installation is solely the responsibility of the installer. Out With the Old |
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| Aligning the New
Front End Remove the New front end from its' crate (Be sure to remove the lower wood tie in blocks first). Position the Front end assembly on the truck. Some of the models are made 1/4" extra long on the back edge and need sanded down for an accurate fit against the doors and cab. Also, some front ends may require that the factory inner bracing be trimmed down to fit the cowl and inside rear fender areas. Shim the front end to the desired location with wooden blocks. Be sure the front end lines up parallel with the door seams. A door seam gap larger than stock is required (somewhere between 1/4" and 5/16"). On PRE-SPLIT models, alignment must be done with the lower panel clamped to the front end - so that the entire unit can be aligned at one time. Some early truck front ends may need to be notched where the frame horns protrude forward. |
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| Place two hinging brackets on each forward frame rail with the gusset on the out board side. These brackets should be positioned 1/2" behind your bumper - clamp them into place. The other two brackets should be positioned on top of the first two with the gussets on the inboard side. Place the hinges (supplied) between the two brackets , which are now sleeved together, at the top forward edge forming a temporary shim. Next, shim the top bracket up to contact with the front end steel bar and clamp it in place. With the brackets in position trim off the excess at a point 1/4" above the bumper. this should put your hinge point 1/2" above and 1/2" behind the bumper. | |
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